Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, widely known as Nims Dai, is among the climbers reported missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan. Purja, one of the most recognised names in modern mountaineering, is best known for climbing all 14 of the world’s eight-thousanders in six months and six days in 2019, a record at the time.
Search and rescue efforts are underway after the avalanche hit the 8,047-metre Broad Peak in the Karakoram mountain range. Reports said four bodies had been located by Pakistani search teams, while efforts continued to retrieve them and search for the remaining missing climbers.
Nirmal Purja Among Climbers Missing on Broad Peak
The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) said a team of 10 climbers went missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak. The entire team was reportedly out of communication following the incident.
The expedition included five Nepalese climbers, Pakistani mountaineer Sohail Sakhi from Hunza, American climber Mallory Geis, a climber from China identified as Wang, and Omani mountaineer Nadhira Al Harthy. Police separately reported that two British nationals, a man and a woman, were part of the missing team.
The search has been complicated by harsh weather and the difficult terrain. Sajid Hussain, deputy director of the tourism department in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region, described the area where the search was focused as remote and difficult, according to Reuters.
The ACP said efforts were being made to mobilise helicopter support and other available rescue resources, subject to weather and operational conditions.
Four Bodies Located After Broad Peak Avalanche
Pakistani search crews reportedly located four bodies after the avalanche. The identities of the climbers were not initially disclosed.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan later identified Omani mountaineer Nadhira Al Harthy among those killed. Al Harthy was known for becoming the first Omani woman and second Omani national to summit Mount Everest.
She had also climbed several major eight-thousanders, including Manaslu, K2 and Nanga Parbat.
Reports said search efforts were continuing for the remaining missing climbers in difficult conditions. Purja’s status remained among the central concerns of the rescue operation.
Who Is Nirmal Purja?
Nirmal Purja is a 43-year-old British-Nepali mountaineer who rose to international prominence after completing one of the most ambitious records in high-altitude climbing.
Born in a small village in Nepal’s Myagdi district at around 1,600 metres above sea level, Purja comes from a Gurkha family. His father and elder brothers served in the Gurkhas, a group of Nepalese soldiers who have served in different armed forces, including the British Army.
Purja followed the family tradition and joined the Gurkhas in 2003 at the age of 18. He later joined the UK Special Forces in 2009 and spent 16 years in the British military.
How Purja Moved From Military Life to Mountaineering
Purja developed an interest in mountaineering while serving in the British military. In 2012, he travelled to Everest base camp and decided to learn technical climbing instead of returning to Kathmandu as originally planned.
He subsequently climbed Lobuche East, a 6,119-metre mountain in Nepal, which he described on his website as his first peak.
His transition from military service to full-time mountaineering eventually led to a series of major high-altitude achievements and international records.
Purja’s Broad Peak Expedition Was Not Originally Planned
Broad Peak was not initially part of Purja’s latest expedition plan. In his final post on X before the incident, he said the original intention was to climb Gasherbrum II, another major peak in the Karakoram range.
However, Purja realised that adding Broad Peak to the expedition could leave him only one mountain away from completing all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen.
He had already summited Gasherbrum II on July 21, which he described as his 57th summit of an eight-thousander.
In his post, Purja wrote about the importance of approaching Broad Peak with caution and said he was seeking a safe ascent and return.
What Are Eight-Thousanders?
Eight-thousanders are mountains rising above 8,000 metres above sea level. There are only 14 such peaks in the world, all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges.
Broad Peak, at 8,047 metres, is the 12th-highest mountain in the world.
For elite mountaineers, completing all 14 eight-thousanders is regarded as one of the most demanding achievements in high-altitude climbing.
Purja’s Record-Breaking 14 Peaks Achievement
Purja’s most famous mountaineering achievement came in 2019 when he completed the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders in six months and six days.
His project, known as Project Possible, broke the previous record for climbing all 14 peaks, which had stood at nearly eight years. Purja completed the challenge between April and October 2019.
The record was later surpassed by Norwegian mountaineer Kristin Harila, who climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in three months and one day in 2023.
Purja’s extraordinary expedition was later featured in the documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. The film followed his attempt to complete the challenge and his efforts to inspire others to pursue ambitious goals.
Purja previously told the BBC that his message was not simply about climbing mountains but about pursuing personal goals.
Project Possible Came With Major Personal Sacrifice
Financing the 14-peak expedition was a major challenge. Purja had to remortgage his house to fund the series of summit attempts, while his wife Suchi supported him throughout the project.
Despite the dangers and physical demands of the expedition, Purja also described moments of camaraderie and celebration at high-altitude camps.
During the 2019 expedition, he and his teammates sometimes held parties at their camps. The documentary also showed the lighter side of a project that involved extreme physical and environmental challenges.
One of the most widely recognised images from his 2019 campaign showed a long line of climbers approaching the summit of Everest in May that year.
Purja’s Other Mountaineering Records
Purja has continued to set major milestones since becoming a full-time mountaineer and expedition guide in 2018, after leaving the British military.
In 2021, he was part of a team of 10 Nepalese climbers that completed the first winter ascent of K2.
His achievements earned him an MBE, a civilian honour, from Queen Elizabeth II in 2018.
After completing Project Possible, Purja returned to Nepal as a major figure in the mountaineering world. He later established an expedition guiding company and a mountaineering apparel brand.
Advocacy for Nepali Mountain Guides
Purja has also used his profile to advocate for Nepali mountain guides and greater recognition of their contribution to expeditions involving climbers from around the world.
In his final X post before the Broad Peak incident, he dedicated his expedition to the people who had supported him, while also acknowledging critics.
Controversy and Allegations
Purja’s public profile has also been accompanied by controversy. In 2024, The New York Times reported allegations made by two women concerning his conduct. One woman alleged that Purja sexually assaulted her in a hotel room in 2023, while another alleged that he grabbed and propositioned her while guiding her during a K2 expedition in 2022.
Purja denied the allegations through his lawyer.
Search Operation Continues on Broad Peak
The immediate focus remains on the search and rescue operation following the Broad Peak avalanche. Four bodies have reportedly been located, with Nadhira Al Harthy among those later identified, while search efforts continued for other missing climbers.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan said rescue resources, including helicopter support, were being mobilised subject to weather and operational conditions. China’s Foreign Ministry also said it was urgently working to verify the situation and expressed willingness to assist Pakistan.
Purja’s disappearance comes during an expedition that was intended to take him closer to another major milestone in his mountaineering career. His status remains part of the ongoing search operation on one of the world’s highest and most challenging mountains.
